Відео

@@alanarthur-l8u mattschainsawparts.com, and costs about $210, although I’m not sure if that includes shipping. Stihl now makes similar install tools that fully support the inner race of the bearing, 5910 850 5221 (ignition side), and 5910 850 5220 (clutch side) which together run about $300 and if ordered through local dealer would come with no shipping charges. The Stihl tools are no doubt over engineered and built like a brick house. But, I’ve had no issues with Matt’s install tool. His tool works on a lot of vintage saws, but of course doesn’t work on all saws, and I’m not sure if it works on newer 500 series husky’s, so you’ll need to make sure you order a version with all sleeves and rods you need for the saws you work on. He has a table on his website to assist with that for Stihl and Husky models. But, at least for Stihl saws, the newer Stihl crank install tools should work on just about any of their gas saws with a conventional crankcase. Can’t say though how universal the Stihl tools are if used on Husky’s, nor if they work at all on other brands, but I would think that either of these tools could work with other brands of chainsaw closely designed after Stihl or Husky models with conventional crank cases. IMO, if you purchase one or both of these tools, they will pay for themselves after you’ve rebuilt a few saws. The sheer ease of using them to install a crankshaft make it a real joy and remove some of the reluctance of cracking open cases.

@@RonaldSkancke You have to completely remove the air filter assembly. It’s a bit of a process compared to many other saw designs. If you search for the illustrated parts list for 044/440 it’ll show how it’s put together which should be all you need. Otherwise, search for and download the workshop service manual and it’ll go over the steps. Or watch parts 1 or 15 of this video series if you need to see the air assembly teardown or reassembly in action.

Saw wasn't that old so nothing needed to be done to the carb

It's most likely an aftermarket Byway that was modified by the guy I bought it from on eBay. He does a ton of mufflers, and I got similar ones for the 281 and 288 I rebuilt and have had no issues with them to date. His user name on eBay is jcmlas00

@@fast2valve559 The 181 and 281 xp take 52mm piston. 288 xp takes 54 mm piston. However, with no tag and s/n it’s hard to know if you’re dealing with a 181, or early- or late-model 281 xp, which makes a difference with fitment of other parts. Also, could be an after market china made crankcase. If it’s a husqvarna crankcase, then if you can find part number on the crankcase then you could cross reference that with the IPL’s on Husqvarna’s website to determine if you’ve got an early- or later model.

@@fast2valve559 You can visit the chain saw collectors corner homepage to look up specs on a lot of old saws. Check it out at www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf

I believe it's probably not a china made crankcase. The cylinder has 9 87 stamped on one side and 004 + + IC on the other side. Trying to put a new top end on it due to piston ring was stuck in ring groove and was on making 60psi. Was going to just replace the ring until I saw a little gouge about 1/4" long at the very top of the cylinder. I

Theoretically if I buy a 54mm bore kit for the 288 it should fit regardless of it was a 181, 281, or 288 correct. Where would a number be located on the crankcase other than where the id tag was at that's missing?

@ yes the crank case should be the same so if you have any cylinder assembly with piston, that’s 54 mm, then you’d be building a 288

@@tomintexas817 Run 25” and 28” bars on the 044

@beliddel thanks

@@williamperkins7986 From mattschainsawparts.com

@@grimgorilla5305 Good luck on the rebuild. You’ll have fun doing it. If the bolt holes are badly damaged you may have difficulty using the case and may need to get a good quality used or new one. But, if not too badly damaged, you may be able to use threaded inserts to repair them. Lots of videos out there on how to use them. I personally haven’t use inserts yet, but have a few turd saws I want to rebuild where I’ll likely need to use them.

@@grimgorilla5305 395’s are known for vibration-caused loosening of bolts. Important to use appropriate loctite and frequently check and retorque bolts on that model of saw.

@@okobojo Proline Solo wireless tach. Works well but you can’t recharge or change the batteries so once dead you need to buy a new one every 2-3 years. Other option is more expensive FastTach wireless tachometer that allows you to replace the batteries. You can get the proline solo from Sawzilla, and the FastTach from amazon. Sometimes I find the FastTach is a bit too sensitive, why I bought the Solo, but when my Solo battery is dead I’ll go back to my FastTach.

@@henrymckean4586 From Matthew Olson at mattschainsawparts.com/crankcases/chainsaw-crankcase-assembly-tool-kit/

@@coltonrhine9229 dealer

@@walker11288 Yes, you can use the Husqvarna splitter on many saws, and is a bit quicker/easier to use. But, can also be a little harder to line up, and the part of that tool that nestles inside the case can sometimes mar the crankcase, but in the end gets the job done.

It's very weird, but I believe it's a 3/16" Allen wrench that you'll need. Not sure why they didn't stick with metric. At least that was the only hex wrench I could get to work.

it depends on the year of saw. On some I've found they use SAE/Imperial ¼"-20 bolts. On others I've found them to be 4.5mm or 5mm. Thus, if you have a bare crankcase, you'll need to purchase some spare bolts and test which ones fit. I don't have any spare ones lying around for 395 so can't measure the length for you, so you'll need to experiment with that as well. Unfortunately, the IPL doesn't state the size, type or length. Good luck.

@@АртурШиробоков-з5я Factory settings are 1.25 turns out from fully seated position on the Low jet screw, and 1.5 turns out from seated position on the high jet screw. But, every carb is different, and best practice once you get there is to further tweak the jets using the aid of a tachometer if you aren’t experienced enough to fine tune the carb by ear. Maximum overspeed rpm is 12,500 (8,500 under load), and idle rpm is 2,500 for the 395. If the saw is new or the cylinder assembly and piston has been replaced, then you should run the max overspeed rpm about 600-700 rpms lower during break-in before tuning the saw to specification. Also, it’s important to retune the saw if you use it at a much higher or lower elevation than normal, and if running the saw all year, you should also tune it for both cold and warm weather. Also, assuming nothing else is wrong with the saw, the carb should be retuned any time it’s not idling or throttling up properly. Hope this helps.

Sorry, don't have the part no. for the SKF bearings. I usually just look them up on SKF's website, or a distributor that sells them using bearing specifications. If I track down the SKF bearing part number I'll let you know.

Does it matter which side of bearings are installed? Some applications of bearings does is purpose of silly question.

@@rhemamachaira8763 oke

Yes, they are very similar

@@beliddel saya suka dengan konten seperti ini. Saya ingin sekali memahami mesin2 bos. Trimakasih anda sudah berbagi ilmu.

New tank assembly

Not that big, although by no means the smallest available. 10 litre capacity if memory serves. Can only fit ½ of chainsaw crankcase plus a few small things. You learn to be efficient w/ it and reuse the fluid multiple times before discarding.

For future reference on repairng/rebuilding this saw, I suggest you download the illustrated parts list from Husqvarna's website, which would answer these types of questions. The sealing ring for both the clutch and ignition side of the crankcase on this saw are identical. Husqvarna OEM part number 503 26 02-05

The handle is super easy to remove. 3 bolts on clutch side of handle, and 2 bolts on the bottom of the tank assembly. That will allow you to remove the handle. Assuming the spring you mention is the anti-vibe spring coming off the right side of the cylinder, that too is easy to remove. You need to insert a long-enough Allen wrench (4mm in size) through the threaded hole in the end of the spring after the handle is removed,, and so long as the head of the bolt securing it to the cylinder isn't full of gunk, you should have no problem inserting the Allen wrench into the head of the bolt to loosen it so you can fully remove the spring from the cylinder.

@@beliddel yeah,mine was modified by the previous owner( the handle is crooked and he put a bigger screw inside the av mount) and the tiny sleeves that come on the bottom where you screw in the handle have come off. My chainsaw is a bit worse than the one you rebuilt. I'm gonna have to work a lot on it. I already got 3 projects so its a good way to start my chainsaw rebuilding journey

@@mirceacrusitu6620 if you can’t somehow find inserts to repair The bolt holes in the tank assembly, then you might be in for a new tank assembly, unfortunately. Sounds like you definitely need a new handle also. I always check the bolts on a 395 frequently to retorque them as necessary. That saw has a lot of vibration and loosening bolts have always been a problem. You can also use Loctite on those mitigate a lot of that.

@@beliddel i have the inserts,I just have to refit them,if you got any tips they're welcome, i got the saw for 350 bucks,I'm getting a new handle as we speak and she:s in for some work, I will follow your videos on the rebuild and get her in a proper shape again,she's been through 23 years of hardships and deserves a restoration.

In case I do lose the inserts,I'll try to get two big screws through the plastic holes,maybe even heat the screws for better seating and secure the handle using two nuts. Its stupid I know but it will keep the handle there till i get a new assembly